Indonesia’s 17,500 islands cannot all be reached by plane, and for the ones that can, flights are not always the cheapest or most practical option. Pelni, the state-owned passenger shipping company, has operated inter-island ferry routes since 1952 and remains the backbone of long-distance sea travel across the archipelago. This guide covers how the system works, the major routes, ticket classes, booking process, and what to expect on board.
What is Pelni?
Pelni (Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia) operates a fleet of large passenger ships that connect more than 95 ports across Indonesia. Routes stretch from Merauke in Papua to Sabang in Aceh, covering islands that have no commercial airports or where air travel is prohibitively expensive for local residents. Government subsidies keep fares low. A crossing from Surabaya to Makassar in economy class costs approximately IDR 250,000 to 350,000 (as of 2026), a journey that takes around 18 to 22 hours.
For travellers, Pelni offers a way to reach off-the-beaten-path destinations, experience how Indonesians travel between islands, and cover long distances at minimal cost. The trade-off is time: Pelni ships run to fixed schedules (usually every one to two weeks per route) and do not move fast.
Major Pelni Routes
Routes change seasonally and ships are occasionally reassigned. Always verify the current schedule at pelni.co.id before planning connections.
Java to South Sulawesi The Surabaya to Makassar run is one of the busiest Pelni routes. Journey time is approximately 18 to 22 hours. Economy fares run approximately IDR 250,000 to 350,000. Ships continue from Makassar deeper into Sulawesi, calling at Bau-Bau (Southeast Sulawesi) and Kendari.
Java to Kalimantan Several routes connect East Java and East Kalimantan. Surabaya to Balikpapan takes approximately 20 to 24 hours. Surabaya to Samarinda (via Balikpapan) adds a few more hours. Fares in economy are approximately IDR 200,000 to 300,000.
Java and Sulawesi to Eastern Indonesia (Maluku) Surabaya, Makassar, and Bitung (North Sulawesi) are the main gateways to Maluku. Routes reach Ambon (approximately 36 to 48 hours from Surabaya), Ternate, and Banda Neira. These are the routes to consider if you are heading to the Banda Islands or Halmahera.
Eastern Indonesia to Papua The longest Pelni voyages continue from Sulawesi and Maluku into Papua. Surabaya to Sorong (the gateway to Raja Ampat) takes approximately 4 to 5 days, calling at Makassar, Bau-Bau, Ambon, and Manokwari along the way. Economy fares for the full Surabaya to Sorong run are approximately IDR 600,000 to 800,000. Fares for segments (for example, Ambon to Sorong) are considerably less.
Nusa Tenggara Pelni ships connect Java to the islands of Nusa Tenggara. Surabaya to Kupang (West Timor) takes approximately 2 to 3 days, calling at Waingapu (Sumba), Ende (Flores), and Larantuka. This route is useful for reaching Sumba and eastern Flores without flying.
Sumatra routes Pelni connects several Sumatra ports to Java and Kalimantan. Belawan (Medan’s port) to Jakarta and to Tanjung Priok is one option. Internal Sumatra connections also exist, though the rail network (where it exists) and buses are often faster within the island.
Ticket Classes
All Pelni ships run multiple accommodation classes:
Kelas 4 (Economy): Open dormitory with shared bunk beds or berthing platforms. Basic toilets and showers are shared. This is the cheapest class and the one used by most local travellers.
Kelas 3: Similar to economy but slightly less crowded on most ships. On some vessels Kelas 3 has more defined bunk assignments.
Kelas 2: Shared cabin with 4 to 6 berths. Cleaner, more private, and significantly more comfortable for voyages over 24 hours. Fares are approximately 2 to 3 times economy.
Kelas 1: Two-berth cabins with a private bathroom on the larger ships. Limited availability. Booking well in advance is necessary. Fares are approximately 4 to 5 times economy.
VIP/Eksekutif: Available on select larger ships. Private or semi-private cabins with air conditioning. Fares are higher but still considerably cheaper than flying.
For crossings under 24 hours, economy class is manageable. For 2 days or more, Kelas 2 is a worthwhile upgrade.
How to Book Pelni Tickets
Online: The official Pelni website at pelni.co.id allows booking in advance. The site has an English-language option but the booking flow is mostly in Indonesian. You can pay by bank transfer or via Indomaret and Alfamart convenience stores using the booking code. Print the booking confirmation or save it to your phone.
Authorised agents: Travel agents near any major port city (Surabaya, Makassar, Tanjung Priok in Jakarta, Belawan in Medan) sell Pelni tickets with a small commission. This avoids navigating the website and is often easier for complex multi-leg journeys.
At the port: Walk-up ticket windows operate at all Pelni ports. Economy class seats are usually available until close to departure except during peak periods (Eid al-Fitr, Lebaran, school holidays in June and July). Kelas 1 and VIP cabins should be booked in advance as availability is limited.
Bring your passport or national ID card. Pelni requires passenger identification for all bookings.
What to Bring
Long Pelni voyages require some preparation:
- Food and snacks: The on-board canteen provides basic meals but the range is limited. Bring instant noodles (hot water is usually available), biscuits, fruit, and anything else you want. Drinking water in larger bottles is cheaper to buy before boarding.
- Bedding: Economy class does not provide sheets. A sleeping bag liner or sarong is useful. Some passengers buy thin foam mats sold near ports.
- Seasickness medication: The Java Sea and Banda Sea can be rough, especially between November and March. If you are prone to motion sickness, take medication before boarding.
- Entertainment: Long crossings have few distractions. A fully charged phone, downloaded podcasts, or a book will be essential.
- Padlock: For locking bags to bed frames in economy class.
Short-Hop Public Ferries
Pelni ships handle long-haul routes, but Indonesia’s ferry network also includes hundreds of shorter government and private ferry services:
Ketapang to Gilimanuk (East Java to Bali): approximately 45 minutes, IDR 10,000 to 20,000, runs 24 hours. The primary crossing between Java and Bali.
Padang Bai to Lembar (Bali to Lombok): approximately 4 to 5 hours, IDR 55,000 to 80,000. Government ferry ASDP runs this route regularly. Slower than fast boats but significantly cheaper and able to carry vehicles.
Banyuwangi to Lembar (East Java to Lombok): a longer route calling at Bali, used mainly for goods transport.
Larantuka to Lembata to Kupang (Flores to Timor): government ferry connecting the outer islands of East Nusa Tenggara.
These shorter routes are cash-only at most ports with no advance booking required.
Fast Boats vs Pelni: Which to Use
Fast boats (covered in our fast boats from Bali guide) are the right choice for short tourist hops: Bali to Nusa Penida, Bali to the Gili Islands, or Padang Bai to Lombok. They take 20 minutes to 2 hours and run daily. They are not cheaper for equivalent distances once you factor in the tourist-facing pricing structure.
Pelni is the right choice when:
- You are travelling to an island with no airport or infrequent flights
- Flights are significantly more expensive than ferry fares for your route
- You want to travel slowly and experience the journey
- You are moving large amounts of luggage or equipment that airlines would charge excess fees for
See our getting around Indonesia guide for a full comparison of all transport modes including domestic flights, trains, and overland buses.
Pelni Tips
Schedule changes happen. Pelni occasionally delays or reschedules departures due to weather, maintenance, or operational reasons. Do not plan tight onward connections immediately after a Pelni arrival. Build at least one buffer day.
Ports vary in quality. Tanjung Priok (Jakarta) and Tanjung Perak (Surabaya) are well-organised. Smaller ports may lack clear signage. Arrive early, at least 2 hours before departure.
Night crossings on shorter routes mean you sleep through most of the journey and arrive at your destination in the morning. This works particularly well for the Surabaya to Makassar overnight run.
Photography is generally permitted on the open decks. Sunsets at sea on longer voyages are worth staying awake for.
For current schedules and all active routes, check pelni.co.id directly. Route maps and timetables are published there and updated when ships change assignments.