Amed Travel Guide: Diving, Snorkelling & Black Sand Beaches in East Bali

Amed is a string of six fishing villages — Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, and Aas — running along a 10 km stretch of East Bali’s rugged coastline. The area is best known as the island’s leading shore-dive destination: Jemeluk Bay offers a healthy coral reef accessible directly from the beach, and the USAT Liberty wreck at Tulamben, one of Southeast Asia’s most accessible wreck dives, sits 15 km west along the coast road. What draws visitors here is the combination of strong underwater credentials, a quiet pace that Kuta and Seminyak lack entirely, and prices that run noticeably lower across accommodation and food alike.

Getting to Amed

Amed sits approximately 90 km from Ngurah Rai International Airport and 80 km from Kuta, and the journey takes 1.5–2 hours by road depending on traffic through Gianyar and Karangasem. A private car transfer costs approximately IDR 250,000–400,000 as of 2026 and is the most practical option, as no direct public bus connects Kuta to Amed. Metered taxis (Blue Bird) serve the route; Grab and Gojek also operate but driver availability thins out the further east you go. If you are travelling from Ubud, allow around 1.5 hours and budget IDR 200,000–300,000 for a private car.

Diving and Snorkelling

Jemeluk Bay is the natural starting point for most visitors. The reef begins roughly 20–30 metres from shore at the north end of the bay and covers a wide area of hard coral, bumphead parrotfish territory, and consistent turtle sightings. Entry from the beach is straightforward; there is no entry fee for snorkelling from shore. Dive shops line the main road through Jemeluk and charge approximately USD 35–55 per dive including equipment as of 2026. Night dives are popular here.

USAT Liberty Wreck, Tulamben — A US Army cargo ship torpedoed in 1942 and beached at Tulamben, now lying in 5–30 metres of water roughly 30 metres from shore. This is one of the most visited dive sites in Asia for good reason: the wreck is intact, encrusted with hard and soft coral, and accessible to Open Water divers. Entry from Tulamben beach is free. Most Amed-based dive operators run day trips to Tulamben for approximately USD 50–70 per diver including equipment and transport. Snorkellers can also access the shallow sections of the wreck; visibility is typically 15–25 metres in the dry season.

Coral Garden at Lipah — A shallower, less-trafficked reef at Lipah village suited to snorkellers and beginner divers. Local operators charge around USD 30–40 for a guided snorkel tour. Marine biodiversity here includes moray eels, lionfish, and occasional mola mola sightings in August–October.

Tenganan Bali Aga Village

Tenganan, approximately 25 km southwest of Amed, is one of Bali’s Bali Aga (original Balinese) villages — a pre-Hindu community with distinct customs, double ikat textile weaving, and a layout unchanged for centuries. Entry is by donation (approximately IDR 20,000–50,000 suggested as of 2026). The village produces gringsing double-ikat cloth, one of the few places in the world where this weaving technique is practised; pieces sold in the village are authentic and priced accordingly, from IDR 500,000 for small items to several million rupiah for full cloths. The village is open during daylight hours; photography is permitted in most areas. Allow an hour for a thorough visit.

Hotels

Blue Moon Villas (mid-range) — A small villa complex at Jemeluk with rice terrace and ocean views, private pools, and direct access to the bay. From approximately USD 80 per night as of 2026. Well-regarded among divers for the proximity to Jemeluk reef.

Santai Beach Inn (budget) — Basic but clean bungalows in Amed village, 50 metres from the black sand beach. From approximately IDR 250,000 per night as of 2026. Air-conditioned rooms available; a simple café on site serves breakfast.

Alaya Resort Amed (luxury) — A hillside property above Jemeluk Bay with infinity pool, spa, and ocean views from all villas. From approximately USD 150 per night as of 2026. The most polished accommodation in the immediate area.

Local homestays — Several family-run guesthouses throughout the Amed strip offer rooms from IDR 150,000 per night as of 2026. Standards vary; check that air conditioning is included if travelling in the wet season.

Restaurants

Wawa Wewe — A long-standing beachfront restaurant in Jemeluk serving Indonesian and Western food at moderate prices. Grilled fish, nasi goreng, and cold beer; approximately IDR 80,000–150,000 per person. Popular with the diving crowd after morning sessions; opens for breakfast and runs through dinner.

Sails Restaurant — Located on a small headland above the bay with open-sided dining and sea views. The menu covers Indonesian staples and some Western dishes; approximately IDR 100,000–180,000 per person. Known particularly for the fish dishes, which use daily catch from local boats.

Local warungs — Scattered throughout every village in the Amed corridor, family warungs serve nasi campur, mie goreng, satay, and fresh coconut for approximately IDR 30,000–60,000 per person. Authentically priced and consistent; the quality of warung food in Amed is generally reliable.

Getting Around

Once in Amed, the 10 km coastal road connecting all six villages is easy to navigate. Scooter hire is available throughout the strip from approximately IDR 70,000–100,000 per day as of 2026 and is by far the most practical way to move between villages. The road is good quality with clear sight lines and far less traffic than the Kuta–Seminyak corridor.

Best Time to Visit

The dry season (April to October) brings calm seas, good visibility for diving (15–30 metres at Tulamben), and consistent southeast winds that keep temperatures manageable. July and August are peak months; accommodation fills quickly and prices rise 20–30%. October and November offer a useful shoulder season — still good diving conditions with fewer visitors. The wet season (November to March) brings heavier swells and reduced visibility but is not a write-off; Jemeluk is often diveable year-round given its protected bay position.

Practical Notes

ATMs are scarce in Amed — withdraw cash in Amlapura (20 km west) or Kuta before arriving. Most dive operators accept card payment but smaller warungs and guesthouses are cash only. Mobile data coverage via Telkomsel or XL is workable throughout the main strip. The coastal road between villages is dark after sunset and scooter headlights are often weak; take care when riding at night. Bring a reef-safe sunscreen — chemical sunscreens are harmful to the coral and several dive operators here have moved to requiring biodegradable alternatives.